Bernina Artista 185 Manuale delle Istruzioni

1When using an electrical machine, basic safetyprecautions should always be followed, including thefollowing.Read all instructions before using this s

Setting up the machine10Attaching the thread spool· raise the needle and presser foot· turn the power switch to «0» (off)· attach the foam pad· place

14Straight stitch No. 1size and type suitable for the type of fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Zipper foot No. 4far right or far

15Long stitchStraight stitch No. 1 or Triple Straight Stitch No. 6size and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyester3.5mm – 5mmup (sewi

16Basting stitchTIPSSecuring a basted seam · to secure basting stitches, sew a few normal lengthstraight stitches at the beginning and end of the seam

17Blind hemTIPFine stitch width adjustment· guide the raw edge along the guide on the foot to keepthe stitch depth evenBlindstitch No. 9size and type

18Universal stitch No. 15depends on width of elastictype and size to suit the fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Reverse pattern fo

19Elastic, cordTIPPreventing elastic from stretching too much· avoid over-stretching the elastic; adjust the presserfoot pressure to suit the fabric.R

20 Bar tack programBartack program No. 24 or Buttonhole bartack No. 25size and type to suit the fabric selectedcotton, polyester, or rayonup (sewing p

21ButtonholesThread tension· the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected· the upper tension is slightly looser than normal· this gi

22 ButtonholesBalance for keyhole and round buttonholes· any balance alterations affect both beads differently(see picture for stitch counter buttonho

23ButtonholesHooking the cord in the automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole· raise the presser foot· g

11Setting up the machineThreading the double needleThreading the first thread· place thread spool on horizontal spool pin· thread by guiding the threa

24Straight stitch buttonholes No. 59size and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Buttonhole foot No. 3C or Au

25ButtonholesButtonhole (all types)size and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Automatic buttonhole foot No.

26Round buttonholes 54+55, and keyhole buttonholes 56–58 and Handlook buttonhole #63size and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyesteru

27Buttonholes (all types)size and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Buttonhole foot No. 3CStitch counter but

28 Buttonholesany buttonholesize and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Buttonhole foot No. 3COpen the progra

29Button sewing-on programButton sew-on program No. 60depends on the distance between the holessize and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or

30TIPSEyelets· ideal for eyes on soft toys, dolls and puppetsDecorative eyelets· use decorative thread to introduce an attractiveelement when combined

31Darning, mendingElastic Edges TIPPrevent fabrics stretching ·To prevent the fabric from stretching as it is sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure t

32 Darning, mendingJersey stitch No. 14size and type suitable for the fabric selectedlightweight darning threadup (sewing position)Reverse pattern foo

33DarningSimple Darning Program No. 22 or Reinforced Darning Program No. 23size and type suitable for the fabric selectedlightweight darning threadup

12Thread cutterThread cutter on head frame· pull both threads from front to back overthe cutter. ·the threads release as soon as the firststitch is se

34 DarningStraight stitch No. 1size and type suitable for the fabric selectedlightweight darning threaddown (darning position)Darning foot No. 9 (opti

35Decorative stitches9 mm wide decorative stitches embroidery needle in a size suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or rayon embroideryup (sewing po

36TIPSPerfect corners· activate Pattern end when approaching corner; whenthe machine stops automatically, sink the needle (ifneeded) and pivot the wor

37Quilt stitchesTIPPerfect corners· activate Pattern End; when the machine stops automatically, sink the needle (if needed) and pivot the workDecorati

38TIPSFreehand quilting and darning· both techniques are based on the same free-motion principlesThread breaks· usually as a result of sudden or jerky

39Combining decorative stitches with functions9 mm decorative stitchessize and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or rayon embroideryup (sewi

40Practical and decorative stitches in memoryPractical and decorative stitches in memory· the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns· the

41Practical and decorative stitches in memoryStitch combination as single repeat · select a memory bank following the directions on the previous page·

42Letters and numbers in memoryTIPSActivate Pattern repeat 1 x after programming· the machine will sew the program once and stopEmbroidering letters o

4316 directionsStraight stitch No.39 or Zig-zag No. 40size and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Sideways m

13Presser foot pressureStandard pressure· for all normal sewingReduced pressure· for jerseys and looseknits, quilting·prevents fabric stretching· adju

44 16 directionsStraight stitch No. 39Long stitchsize and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton, polyester, or rayonup (sewing position)Sideways

454 directionsTIPPatching fabrics that ravel· finish the edges of the patch· stitch just inside the edge of the patch· do not trim the patch4 directio

46 Sideways motion stitchesSideways motion stitches/monogramssize and type suitable for the fabric selectedcotton or rayon embroideryup (sewing positi

47Sideways motion stitchesExternal button·press the external Decorative stitch button·press the external Alphabet button for monogramsScreen· select a

48 Sideways motion stitchesSideways motion stitches in memorySideways motion stitches in memory· all sideways motion stitches and monograms can beprog

49BalanceAll stitches are tested and adjusted before the machineleaves the factory; however, shipping and transportingcan affect the setting of the ba

50 BalanceBalance for sideways motion stitchesFabric, thread stabilizers, and interfacings can affectsideways motion stitches so correcting with balan

51Index16 directional sewing 43–444 directional sewing 45AAuto buttonholes 25Auto round and keyhole buttonholes 26Automatic darning program 33BBalance

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14 Stitch SummaryPractical stitches Buttonholes9 mm/40 mm decorative stitches185_BA_engl 16.4.2004 11:30 Uhr Seite 14 030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

15Stitch Summary16-directional sewing 4-directional sewingAlphabetsQuilt stitches185_BA_engl 16.4.2004 11:30 Uhr Seite 15 030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

16 Stitch Summary185_BA_engl 16.4.2004 11:30 Uhr Seite 16 030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

17Presser feetPresser Feet3AAutomatic Buttonhole Foot Buttonholes in flatmaterialsDarning program4Zipper footSewing in zippers5Blind stitch footBlind

18 Practical stitchesPractical stitches 1 Straight stitchAll non-stretch fabrics. All straightstitch work.2 Zig-zagMost fabric types. All simple zig-z

19Practical stitches21 BastingBasting seams, hems, etc.22 Simple darning programAutomatic darning in fine and mediumweight fabrics.23 Reinforced darni

2Choosing a BERNINA “Sewing and Embroidery System” is a decision whichwill have a positive impact on your sewing for years to come.Customer satisfacti

20 General instructionsScreenThe artista is operated with a combination of external buttons andknobs and a touch screen.Switch machine on· power switc

21General instructionsOn-screen stitch selection/stitch display/functionsStitch Selection· touch the stitch of your choice· the stitch is highlighted·

22 General instructionsFunctions· touch the function of your choice· the selected function is highlighted(a number of different functionscan be select

23General instructionsConfirm and go to next screen· touch OK to confirm· the screen displays the selectedstitch· the selected stitch is active(highli

24 General instructionsAlphabet button· the alphabet menu appears· touch to select the alphabet ofyour choiceQuilt stitches/Directional sewingbutton·

25General instructions / FunctionsNeedle stop · the default setting of the needlestop is the “up” position·press the needle stop button· the on-screen

26 FunctionsGeneral functionsScroll up· touch one or more times· screen scrolls up to show moreoptions· touch the symbol continuously toscroll quickly

27FunctionsPattern repeat 1–9 x· touch symbol one or more times toselect number required·1 = machine stops at the end of anindividual stitch or stitch

28 FunctionsDouble needle limitation· touch one or more times to selectnumber from 2 to 8· the numbers represent the distancebetween the needles in mm

29FunctionsFunctions in MemoryDelete· touch symbol· delete individual stitches or lettersto the left of the cursor· delete stitch combinationsApplicat

Contents 3Safety InstructionsForwardDetails of the machineSetting up the machineStitch SummaryPresser feetPractical stitches/buttonholesGeneral instru

30 FunctionsPattern Extend 2–5x· touch one or more times· the numbers 2–5 appeardepending on the type of stitchselected· the length of selected stitch

31Functions/MessagesLetter size· appears in toolbar when any letteror character of one of four styles of alphabets is selected· touch one or more time

32 ButtonholesButtonholesButtonholes/Button sewing onprogram/eyelets·press the external Buttonholebutton (to the right of screen)· screen shows an ove

33Buttonholes 33Automatic buttonholes (round, keyhole and hand-look)Auto buttonhole· machine sews circle or eye automatically· machine sews the first

34 ButtonholesAutomatic buttonhole (all types)Length calculated from buttonDetermine button size·a scale appears on the screen· hold the button (4–27

35ButtonholesStitch counter buttonholes (all types)The first bead of the buttonhole is sewn forward and the second,backwardsStitch using Buttonhole Fo

36 ButtonholesButtonhole corrections (all types)Bead density· increase or reduce the stitch lengthby approximately 2 steps to achievethe desired effe

37Buttonholesstitches are preprogrammed· use an awl to punch the keyholebefore cutting the buttonhole openLeave program· touch esc· screen reverts to

38 Buttonholesstops automatically· length of beads is determined bythe user· bartacks and securing stitches arepreprogrammedLeave program· touch esc·

39ButtonholesCutting buttonholes openButtons with 2 and 4 holes can besewn on by machine.Button sew-on program· select stitch 60· the button sew-on fo

Details of the machine4Details of the machineBack viewFront view1234567811121415161819202221242627282930232517313532910133334373839503649185_BA_engl

40 Alphabets/NumbersAlphabets/NumbersThere is a choice of five differentalphabet styles.Each alphabet can be sewn in twosizes.Large monograms can be s

41Alphabets/NumbersProgramming letters/numbersContinue programming· touch to select the next letter· the letter appears in memory· continue in this ma

42 MemoryProgramming stitchesBasic Programming· select the desired stitch· make any desired adjustments tostitch width, stitch length, andneedle posit

43MemoryContinue programming· select the next desired stitch· the stitch appears in the mem field· continue in this manner· start sewing; when the foo

44 MemoryEditing memory contentsStitches with functions· stitches can be modified after beingprogrammed into memory·program the first two stitchesnorm

45MemoryInserting a stitch in memory· place cursor where the stitch is tobe inserted· select stitch/letter· the new stitch is inserted to the leftof t

46 MemoryOpen individual memoryReturning to a previouslyprogrammed memory bank · open memory by pressing theexternal mem button· touch mem 1 on the fu

47MemoryMemory sub-divider· the contents of a memory can besub-divided as desired, e.g. name,street, town, etc. by using the editfeature·program the n

4816 directional sewing16 directional sewing· select one of the two stitch choicesfor 16 directional sewing:· 39 – Straight Stitch· 40 – Zig-zag Stitc

49Directional sewing16 directional sewing – straight stitch with long stitch functionStraight stitch with long stitchfunction·press the external quilt

5Details of the machineBobbin coverStitch plateAttachment base for special accessoriesDarning ring connectionPresser footNeedle clampThread guideNeedl

50 Directional sewing/sideways motion stitchesSewing in 4 directions without turn-ing the fabric is particularly useful formending worn areas in tubul

51Sideways motion stitchesSideways motion stitchesSideways motion stitches· after selecting the desired motif,the stitch is activated· all normal info

52 BalanceBalanceOpen Balance· touch function b· if the function is not visible onscreen, touch the arrow in thefunction toolbar to scroll through all

53BalanceBalance for sideways motion stitchesFabric, thread stabilizers, and inter-facings can affect sideways motionstitches so correcting with balan

54 Help ProgramHelpThe Help program provides on-screen explanations about individualstitches and all functions, elimina-ting the need to refer regular

55Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative ConsultantTTC button·press the external TTC button· menu appears· select Thread Tension· thread tension screen appe

56 Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative ConsultantTutorialIn computer language, tutorialmeans self-help. The tutorialprovides concentrated on-screeninform

57Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative ConsultantMenu· the following menu appears:· Thread tension· Tutorial· Creative Consultant· touch Creative Consulta

58 Smart FunctionSmart FunctionSometimes you have to interrupt atask at hand to complete anotherpiece of sewing which must be donebefore you can carry

59Setup ProgramSetup ProgramThe Setup program allows you topersonalize the screen to suit yourown requirements and preferences.You can change basic se

Setting up the machine6Carrying case·protects from dust and dirt· compartment for accessoriesAccessories· foot control·instruction manual· power cable

60 Setup ProgramPersonal ProgramSetup·press the external Setup button· menu appears· touch Personal Program· Personal Program screen appearsUse the Pe

61Setup ProgramPersonal program (additional stitches)· the top row of five spaces isoccupied· the 6th stitch appears in the nextrow· you can program 4

62 Setup ProgramSetup menu·press the external Setup button,menu appears· select personal programPersonal screen· personal screen appears· select stitc

63Setup ProgramRemoving functions· select Motor Speed in the lowertwo rows· touch the up arrow · the function disappears from thelower rows· the funct

64 Setup ProgramChanging basic settings for stitch width,stitch length and needle positionsOpen Setup· select stitch for which you want toalter the wi

65Setup ProgramChanging the motor speedAudio signals· audio signals can be applied to thefollowing:· stitches· functions· feed-dog raised/lowered (for

66 Setup ProgramSave and close· touch OK to confirm the change· touch esc to return to the Setupmenu· touch esc to return to the lastselected stitch m

67Setup ProgramStart screen on and offReturn to basic settings Back to factory settings·touch reset to return tensions tothe factory settingsSave and

68 Setup ProgramSetup menu·press the external Setup button,menu appears· select Sewing LightSwitch light on/off· touch on· light will be on continuous

69Setup ProgramServiceThe service function of the Setupprogram gives information about theversion of software in the artistaand lets you make calibrat

7Setting up the machineLarger sewing surface· the sewing tableincreases the sewingsurface·free arm for largertubular items such aspant legs and waistb

70 Setup ProgramService Screen· service screen appears· select screen· select this screen if the on-screenbuttons do not react properly whenselected (

71Setup Program Hoop adjustment· hoop adjustment screen appears· attach the large hoop to theembroidery module · insert the embroidery template intoth

72 Setup Program Setup menu· select thread brandChanging thread brandChanging thread brand· the color numbers of the selectedthread brands appear now

73eco function / Special AccessoriesLeave Setup program· touch esc· Setup is closed· changes are saved· changes remain saved when themachine is turned

74 Special AccessoriesInserting the card· insert the card into the slot in themodule Embroidery cards Connecting the embroidery module· turn the sewin

75Special accessoiresEmbroidery card menu· the embroidery menu appears· touch the teddy bear symbolEmbroidery motifs on the card·the first motif scree

76 Needle, thread, fabric feedImportant facts about sewing machine needlesSewing machine, needle and threadYour Bernina uses needle system 130/705H. N

77Needle, thread, fabric feedNeedle size60–10070–9090–10080–10060–9075–9075–9075-9080–100100–12010070–10080ModelNormal point, slightly roundedBall poi

78 Needle, thread, fabric feedFeed-dog and fabric feedHeight Compensating ToolFeed-dog and sewing cornersLet the fabric feed evenly!Holding back will

79Cleaning, MaintenanceReplacing the Sewing LightContrary to an ordinary bulb, the CFLsewing light has a better illuminationand a longer life.Caution:

Setting up the machine8To remove· raise the needle· turn power switch to “0”· open the bobbin cover· grasp the latch of thebobbin case·remove caseBobb

80 TroubleshootingTrouble shootingIn most cases you will be able to identify and remedyfaults by checking the following.Check whether:· the upper and

81Glossary of termsGlossary of termscheck · to preview the contents of a memory bankclr (clear) ·remove or restore settings, back to basic settingscur

82 Glossary of termssmart ·program which saves the stitch and all settings in use during interruptions. Togglebetween two stitches.software · computer

83IndexAAccessory box 6Alphabets/numbers 40–41· alter size 40· monogram sizes 40· programming 41Alphabet programming functions 31BBalance 52–53Bobbin

84 IndexMMaintenance, cleaning 79Memory 42–47· Corrections in memory 45· Deleting memory 47· Functions 44· Open memory 42· Open individual memory 46·

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1ContentsStraight stitch, Zig-zagAltered memory Practical stitch seamsSewing knitsZippersLong stitch functionBasting stitchBlind hemElastic, cordBarta

2 Straight stitchStraight stitchStraight stitch · the machine is ready to sew as soon as it is turned on· after the welcome screen (3 seconds), the ma

Straight stitch 3Securing stitchSecuring stitch· for all fabrics· secures beginning and end of seam·reverse stitching is exactly on top of the seam,pr

9Setting up the machineChanging the presser foot· raise the needle andpresser foot· turn power switch to 0Attaching the presser foot· guide the foot u

4 Straight stitchNarrow edge stitchingNeedle position· left for outer edge· right for inner edgePresser foot· Blindstitch foot No. 5Outer edge· place

Zig-zag 5Zig-zag applications· for all fabric types· for finishing raw edges· for decorative workStitch selection· touch zig-zag stich 2Screen· sugges

6Temporary Altered Memory· for all stitches and fabrics· altered stitch length and width settings are savedautomatically· sew a stitch (e.g. zig-zag s

7Practical stitch seamsOpen seamsSeams which are pressed open· seam allowance width as wide as desired· seam lies flat· seam does not stretchSuggested

8Triple Straight Stitch No. 680–90 universal or jeanspolyesterup (sewing position)Reverse pattern foot No. 1COpen seam· durable seam for firm and den

9Practical stitch seamsTIPSKnits and jersey· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibersSewing stretch fabrics· if necessary use a stretch

10Stretch Overlock No. 13 or Reinforced Overlock No. 19universal, ballpoint, or stretch as neededcotton or polyesterup (sewing position)Reverse patter

11Practical stitch hemsPreparation· fold and press hem; baste if desiredSewing· sew hem at desired depth (right side)· trim excess fabric (wrong side)

12Sewing knitsTIPSNeedle stop down· needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves(neck edges and armholes)Presser foot pressure·reduce pressure i

13Sewing knitsTIP Nadelstopp unten · grosse Hilfe beim Nachfassen des Bündchens um Rundungen (Hals/Armloch)Vari-overlock No. 3size and type suitable f